Isle Royale National Park
Trip Reports
Isle Royale Trip Report
August 14-19, 2002
Written by Amy Beam

    We recently took a 6 day trip up to Isle Royale in August and had a blast. The trip crew included me (16 year old girl), a 12 year old girl and my mom and dad.

Day 1
    It all started on Tuesday when we caught the Wenonah to the island. (Note: make sure to get to your dock early to secure a parking spot in the locked area) Anyway, we arrived at Windigo at 12:30, ate some gorp and beefsticks, and set off on the East Huginnin Cove Trail-or so we thought. Arrived on the real trail about a quarter of a mile later. The hike was a lot of ups and downs-steep climbs when it hooked with the Minong Trail for 6/10ths of a mile. Some planks on the trail in marshy areas. Hiked in pine forests with tall grasses and many sweet berries! Saw a moose in one of the marshes-It was a young bull just beginning to grow his antlers, standing waist deep in the marsh! Later, we also heard one bellow. This was all around the 3.7 mile mark. After about 4 miles the path followed Lake Superior and was more rocky with boulders. Arrived at camp at 5:30 (left Windigo at 11:30). All the campsites were full except for #4, which was a secluded, private site, though #1 looked especially nice to stay in because it was located right on Lake Superior. Ate a great meal of fruited rice, lasagna, and tang. Temp. was about 76 degrees all day.  Enjoyed part of a breathtaking sunset behind the "Sleeping Giant" (part of Canadian Border) and went to bed at 8:45. Just missed seeing a fox tonight in camp.

Day 2
    Woke up at 5:30, packed up and were walking out by 6:45 to catch the boat back at Windigo. We hiked the West Huginnin Trail out, which consisted of 4 steep ridges in thicker forests, but a very serene walk! It was perfect weather to hike in! Arrived in Windigo at 9:30-plenty of time to shower and get ready for The Voyager, which came at 10:30. This boat was smaller than the Winona but traveled considerably faster, and was a more comfortable ride-less wavy (No need for Dramadine! :)) McCargo Cove was the first stop for the boat, which is where we jumped off at 1:30. Since there were no shelters open, we explored the 3 campsites, choosing #1-very scenic and spacious, but a long hike up/down to pump water. In the afternoon, went to explore the mines. Ran into backpackers along the way that said to get there we should take the first trail after the mile marker sign on the Minong Trail, go down to a lake and bushwack to the mine. Needless to say, we got lost after the lake. Knew we were close though, because we went through old rock piles, and past deep mines, now filled with water. Eventually hooked back up to the Minong Trail and came out by Pine Mountain, which was the most beautiful area!!! Could see most of the island from the Canadian Border to the Greenstone Trail. Fantastic, breathtaking view!! Well worth the walk! Afterwards came down from the highest point of the mountain, down the rocks, past two man-made rock markers and back on Minong Trail heading back to McCargo Cove. Then, right to the left of those markings on Pine Mountain, was a smooth, downhill trail, which led straight to the Minong Mines! Saw 2 enormous mines, blacksmith shop, and a sign explaining the mines. Really neat to see. Walked back on the minong trail (a little over a mile) to McCargo cove. Trail consisted of birch trees and small brush. Got back about 6:30, ate an excellent backpacking meal of Chicken and Rice, Macaroni and Cheese, 24 pistachio nuts each and cider. By this time the weather had turned cloudy and drizzly. Stood on the dock with others as the night progressed waiting for a regular appearing bull moose to come out. Steadly poured for a while. Then a full-length rainbow formed over the cove!! Saw 2 otters-1 was a baby playing by the dock. Rained harder then so went to bed at 8:45.

Day 3
    Rained steady all night. Water leaked through Sarah and mine's R.E.I. tent and leaked up through the bottom of mom and dad's.  Woke up and had no choice but to dry off the tents, sleeping bags, etc. in an open shelter (#5). Change of plans for today-decided to stay at McCargo Cove and dry off. Played cards in the shelter as it rained steadily on and off all day-it was about 70 degrees outside.  The cove was clear out of backpackers until late afternoon.  Cooked dinner at the pier about 5:30 when we caught a glimpse of 3 loons-close enough to reach out and touch. Talked with other backpackers while waiting for the moose again. Went back to sleep in our shelter by 9:15.  Not long afterwards the moose came out, and we fell asleep to it sloshing around in the water by the pier.  P.S. this place is great for star-gazing!

Day 4
    Awoke at 6:45, went to pump water for breakfast, and there was a large cow moose in the water across the bay! Packed up and left the cove at 8:45 to hike 6.4 miles to Lake Richie today. Have to make up for lost ground yesterday. Low 80's today-clear sky and sunny! However, flat, slippery planks lined part of the path to West Chickenbone-but a good moose viewing area and a scenic hike. Arrived at Chickenbone West around 10:00. The campsites here were extremely scenic and peaceful-be sure to get either the last one or first campsite you come to on the trail. Very peaceful area, which nests loons. We left Chickenbone then to go to Lake Richie. An extremely steep climb right away over the Greenstone Ridge. A couple others after that climb also. But the hike was exceptionally scenic-much better than the Huginnin Cove trails. Not as thick forest, but more lakes and everything from pine/birch trees to aspen, ferns, and rock. Arrived at Lake Richie by 11:45 tired and hot! Campsites 2 and 3 were both spacious and pleasant-stayed in #2. Set-up, ate lunch, and went for a swim. Water was cold at first but extrememly refreshing. Need to pull a few leeches off afterward though. Decided about 3:45 to dayhike to Moskey Basin to eat dinner. Traveled on a flat 2.2 mile trail over open rock/pines/marsh. Ate lasagna on the pier at Moskey Basin-beautiful area-lots of rock overlooking the water, intertwined by forest. Also witnessed two loons chasing each other across the lake-going as fast as a boat! Moskey Basin is the most scenic we've been to though-extremly peaceful, and breathtaking views of the lake. Then, as we finished our dinner, a ranger came in to the basin. We asked the forecast and he said "Gale Force winds were coming in tomorrow and didn't know if the boat would be picking us up in 2 days! Ration our food!" Afterwards, we hiked back to Richie at 6:30, seeing snakes on the way. Went to bed at 9 as the winds started to pick up.

Day 5
    Rained last night/early this morning and the winds started to blow  our tent around. But we also heard wolves last night!!! They say a pack lives in the area. Sounded a little like a loon, but deeper and cut short. Early, before the others awoke, mom and dad packed up their tent, and being as it was raining, Dad left early to quickly hike to Chippewa Harbor to get us a shelter. The 4.4 mile hike from Richie to Chippewa was more strenous, with numerous hills, but was very scenic, despite the steady rain and flooded trail. The rain stopped when mom, Sarah, and I were about 1.7 miles from Chippewa Harbor and the sun came out! Perhaps it was about 70 degrees. By noon, we were the only inhabitants of the whole harbor. The shelters there were very nice though with great views.  Not very far to get water either. Its all rock down to the harbor with forest to the shelters' backs. Checked in with a private boat docked at the pier. The guy said it was rough on Lake Superior, the Voyager didn't go out today, and was way behind schedule.  (The boat was scheduled to pick us up at 9:00 the next morning to take us off the island). We were saving our meals now, and our fuel. Around noon, we hiked down to an old school house and sat on a rock, watching the white caps in Lake Superior. Found an apple tree, and played some cards. We and the boaters are the only other people at Chippewa Harbor! Later the captain of the private boat informed us the winds were 50 mph now and the waves 15 ft high! About 6:30 the boaters invited us in to boil water for us, also letting us snack and drink some pop!! Went to sleep at 9:00 in Shelter 2, which was more protected from the wind and had the whole harbor to ourselves.

Day 6
    Woke up this morning when the boaters came to tell us the lake was better-only 1-3 foot waves and the Voyager should come to pick us up in the afternoon. They also gave us more food!! :)  Meanwhile, Sarah and Dad went to pump water while mom and I looked over and saw a large cow moose standing just 3 yards away from us! We watched as she fed for awhile, then ran off.  Very neat! Also saw a great blue heron fly across. Packed up so we'd be ready whenever the boat showed up. It was hot today-80  degrees with a slight breeze. At noon, Dad and I went fishing next door at Mason Lake. Dad caught 2 northerns, one 14 incher. I caught one also. Walked back at 3:00 to find Mom and Sarah talking to a different private boater who'd come in for the night who  said the Voyager may not come to pick us up today yet! Then, as
we were eating two park rangers came by, informing us the boat will not be by to get us until tomorrow morning at 8! And if the boat didn't show up tomorrow they'd be back with food for us. However, that night, the new boaters, said they'd feed us hamburgers/fish/potatoes-we were stuffed and left the camp at 6:30 to hike a ways along the trail back to Lake Richie 20 minutes to look for moose. No luck. Might have heard wolves that night.

Day 7
    Woke up at 6:30 and started packing. Dad and Sarah went down to pump water when all of a sudden came running back up to camp again-The voyager was entering the harbor to come pick us up! The boat was trying to make up lost ground for yesterday-stopped at Windigo for only 2 minutes. Was at Grand Portage at 11:50.

Postscript
Memorable Trip! We will return!
Note* Important info:
-No bugs in August
-Bring toilet paper to campsites not on any harbors
-not many people come after Aug. 18th.
-Rained about everyother day
-Visit east side of island for sure!
 
Written by Amy Beam
(C)Copyright 2002 All Rights Reserved

 

 
(C)Copyright 2002 Mike Tremblay
All Rights Reserved
All reports are the property of the Author's.  They may not be copied or reproduced in any form without permission of the Author.
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